Project Conventions in .NET

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Project Conventions
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The following projects look to a modest set of conventions in the way circuits are portrayed. These conventions are divided into three categories: switch depiction, LED orientation, and the circuit standards covered in Appendix A that you ll be referred to. Switch depiction: All toggle switches are depicted as single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) style. That is, it s a toggle switch that has three poles (soldering lugs) on the back and two on positions. In reality, all toggles shown with three lugs but with just two wires attached could as well be single-pole, single throw (SPST) switches that is, a toggle switch that has only two lugs and one on position. In fact, if you re buying one switch at
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13 The Instrumentarium: An Overview
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a time, you ll save a little money purchasing SPSTs instead of SPDTs. So why do I depict SPDTs Simply because these are the switches you ll most likely find cheaply in quantity, in surplus. Because they can also be used as the simpler, two-lug SPST (the application you ll see in most of these projects), I ve shown them wired as such. In addition to this, I want to be clear on which two lugs are used when wiring a SPDT as a SPST, a very common application in electronics (see 6 for more on switch use). But by all means, feel free to buy SPST toggle switches instead of SPDTs for any switch depicted that, again, gets only two wires soldered to it.
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Either a two-lug or three-lug toggle switch will work fine for the projects in this book.
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LED orientation: LEDs are usually designed with a different length for each lead. At one time, in the Library of Alexandria, there was a papyrus scroll detailing exactly what LED lead length meant. Some scholars argue that the longer lead must be positive and therefore the anode because bigger is always better and therefore . . . positive. Historians confound this conclusion with their own. The fire that burned Alexandria was huge: Bigger is not always better. The longer lead must then be the negative lead, or the cathode. In response to this lost knowledge and subsequent confusion, manufacturers have nearly disposed of this code. The differing lead length has become merely fashion. And worse, what about the LEDs found in surplus, special-application LEDs that have both leads cut the same exact length How can you possibly know the polarity then Easy. All common LEDS have a similar internal structure. Look inside the dome. One lead will terminate in a small post. The other will terminate in a large dish of metal. The LED element rests above this large chunk of metal, and this dish represents the cathode, or negative side, of the LED. In the projects that depict LEDs, you ll see a dot on one side of the LED. This indicates the cathode, or large metal dish side, of the LED, regardless of lead length.
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If the LED doesn t light, forget everything I just said and reverse the leads.
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Circuit standards (in Appendix A): Rather than draw the generic output scheme for each project (line out, trimmer, LED, speaker switch, and output jack), I ve presented this common circuit in Appendix A. It s one of a dozen generic bends that can be applied to circuit-bending projects, including many in this book. Simply look at the output scheme in the appendix and consider the speaker shown to be the speaker in your current project. Plan your output controls (jack, speaker switch, and so on) and their placement with this general circuit in mind.
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Check Appendix A for instrument output wiring and other common circuits.
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Part IV Eighteen Projects for Creating Your Own Alien Orchestra
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Parts: Advice and a Warning
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As covered early in this book, I highly advise buying parts in quantity from a surplus electronics dealer. Appendix C provides you with a few sources. Because many people will be buying parts from Radio Shack (after all, I ve supplied you with RS part numbers), I must in good conscience sound a warning. Though expensive, most Radio Shack LEDs, potentiometers, capacitors, and such will serve the purpose. But I m not about to give any a reward for dependability. Radio Shack s tiniest micro mini toggle switches tend to fall apart or jam after a while, and their normally closed mini pushbutton switches are simply worthless. Avoid! These pushbuttons are lacking a good crimp where the metal body meets the plastic back half. The result The switch is guaranteed to jettison its bottom section within normal use, if not simply break in half as you attempt to mount it. Things get worse. There is no excuse for the poor machining of either the threaded shaft of this switch or the panel nut that is supposed to screw onto it, unless the low-quality soft metal used in each is to be the scapegoat. The result is a nut too loose for the job, and one that s difficult to thread onto the switch s shaft. The resulting jam will deform the soft metals, making the threading-on of the nut all but impossible. Again, avoid! Perhaps Radio Shack will someday replace this design with a viable version. But as of this writing, and for years prior, Radio Shack has been peddling this certain inferior component. Trust me: Even if you don t have to pay shipping to and from Japan incurred by replacing a sloppy Radio Shack switch (the voice of experience speaking), you ll be frustrated enough with this switch to curse the day you bought it. I m stressing this point for one reason: You ll be needing a normally closed pushbutton switch for the power reset circuit in many projects. Radio Shack will be, even with this warning, the inevitable source for this switch for many benders. All I can do is try my best to help people circumvent all the expense, time wasted, and sure hassles this particular component brings. My suggestion is to contact either Mendelson s or Pembleton Electronics (below) and buy an assortment of small components such as you ll need in these projects to see what you think. If you like what you get, order a decent quantity of all the common parts you ll need. Describe what you want exactly give dimensions and Radio Shack part numbers if they ll cross reference for you. Ask whether you re buying surplus or catalog items. Ask the price differences per piece and in quantity between catalog and surplus ask where the price breaks kick in. Ask about the quality of each (often surplus is of better quality, consisting as it does of major corporation overruns). Ask about return policies if you re buying in quantity (you might find a defect the reseller honestly didn t know about). If you discover a defect in surplus equipment, report it to the seller immediately. You ll usually get a credit or your money back if the complaint is legit and you re friendly about it, even if your receipt says All Sales Final. You know what Go ahead and buy the bad switch from Radio Shack. Seriously. Just one pack. The part number is 275-1548. But do not install one in an instrument. With the first switch, just try to break it in half. That was easy. With the second switch, just try to mount it in a hole and thread the nut on the switch. That was hard; notice the loose fit. Compare its construction
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