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Jump down to Control Mounting and read up on board removal and potentiometer choices. After you ve decided what kind of pots you ll be using, you can decide where they ll be mounted and, accordingly, mark mounting positions with your sharp-tipped pencil. Look again at Choosing a Cool Control Layout for body-contact ideas. After all positions have been marked (and any internal components removed, if needed probably the main circuit board; be sure that all new switch and pot clearances are double-checked), all pilot holes can be drilled with your 1 8" bit. Use your hand bore to enlarge holes up to component size; finish hole edges with your de-burrer. Remember that, with careful use, you can also use your Dremel and the correct-sized burr bit to enlarge holes. The burr bit will want to stray around the pilot hole. Be very careful to keep it on track.
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A lot of disassembly is required to paint the DH 100. As with other complex instruments I ve discussed, luckily this is simply procedural. All boards remove quite easily (screws or slots) and the actual key hardware is held in place with a minimum of screws. Keep all screws sorted as to origin, and make notes of any internal configurations you think you might need to refer to upon reassembly. When you have the unadorned case halves drilled out and cleaned and (probably) the speaker grille and its chrome rim masked, you re ready to paint. See 12 for painting tips.
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If you can t find the small pots needed to complete the design as shown in Figure 31-1, you may be able to use standard-size pots if you mount them in the bottom of the horn s bell, beneath the speaker. You ll need to be aware of the flexible drain tube that runs through this area as well as a mounting post that houses a screw to close the case at the bottom of the instrument. Be sure to meet clearance needs before you drill holes in this area. To install the panel-mounted envelope pot, you need to cut three traces on the board s bottom (see Soldering, next). After traces are cut and your new components are mounted, you can finally relocate the board and replace its mounting screws. If your switch or pot lugs will be blocked by the board, be sure to solder wires to these lugs before remounting the board. Make these wires longer than you think you ll need them; they can be snipped to correct length as you later solder them in place.
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If you want to be able to reshape your voice envelopes, you need to replace a trimmer on the board (VR3) with a panel mount potentiometer (the envelope pot in Figure 31-2). Study the traces on the back of the board that connect to VR3. Using a sharp knife blade or very tiny burr bit on your Dremel, cut the circuit traces as close to the pot s leads as possible. Essentially, your aim is to isolate the trimmer from the circuit, because the new envelope pot solders to traces that once connected to the trimmer, completely replacing it.
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It is not necessary to replace VR3, the envelope trim pot, with a panel-mount pot as shown in Figure 31-2. Although this bend allows cool variation in the DH 100 s sounds, it does require precise circuit surgery, and no other bend depends upon the replacement of VR3 to operate. It s entirely up to you whether to include this touchy bend in the Hyper Sax bending scheme.
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After all the new bending components have been mounted behind the board (pots and switches), remount the board. Soldering now proceeds as indicated in the bending diagram (refer to Figure 31-2). It is imperative that you use a tiny soldering tip when soldering to the metallic ends of SMD components. And it s mandatory that the tip of your soldering iron be as clean as possible. Quick and precise, our bent soldering standard, is needed here if anywhere. SMDs are a little daunting to solder to. But as said, all s possible here. Proceed with a steady hand, take your time, and use good lighting and proper tools.
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