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With a little disassembly, painting the SK-60 is easy. It should be painted in two sections, with the body and front panel each having its own painting session. From the front panel you ll need to remove all the switch components. The rubber contact sheets will drop right off their posts. The contact section of the power switch will be freed when the slider handle on the other side of the panel is pried away from it. As mentioned previously, notice the orientation of these components before they re removed from the panel. At times I ll mark such components with registration lines to be certain that I m aligning everything correctly upon reassembly. You have two ways to go on the circuit and keyboard: mask or removal. By all means, removal is the best way to go. Remove the retaining strip at the top of the keyboard keys. Next, remove the screws holding the circuit board in place. You ll also need to remove the small circuit board next to the microphone (and try to guess what s on the other side before you remove it did you guess right ). Carefully remove the keys and set aside in a very secure spot. Beneath the keys you ll find the switch panel that the keys hit when pressed. The soft rubber strip should stay in place as you remove the final screws holding the panel to the bottom of the instrument s case. Last, lift the microphone out of its nest, trying your best not to disturb the foam it s wrapped in. At this point you should be able to remove the electronics from the case and proceed to painting, following the instructions in 12. If you decided to mask instead of taking everything apart, well, okay. It s possible. You ll still need to remove all the switch components from the top panel. After that, use masking tape to mask the keyboard. To do this correctly you ll need to insert tape into the thin gaps between the keyboard and the surrounding case. Fold the remaining tape over the keys and press down. Mask the remaining key area as well as the circuit board itself. You can now proceed with painting following the procedures, again, in 12. The chief problem with masking instead of removal of the keyboard is that the tape-to-case gaps around the keyboard can cause paint to gather and fill these small spaces. If this happens, the paint job will be ruined where the tape has caused interference. Stripping a case of any and all components prior to painting is always the better solution.
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Anytime you paint over a panel containing complex control legends, you might want first to scan the panel for future reference or retitling, unless you re the type who revels in confusion. Like me.
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After the paints have dried, you can replace all the components you removed prior to painting and proceed to the next section.
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If you re following the control layout in Figure 21-1, control mounting should be a snap. The only point to bring forward is the usual consideration when mounting bare LEDs: Use the correct bit size and drill from the inside out. If you re placing the LED inside a pilot light assembly, hole size and finish will, of course, not be as critical.
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This time out, the most challenging soldering task will be making connections to the ten points just below the IC. But because you re using thin wire-wrap wire, all will go as smoothly as possible. Be accurate and steady handed; use as little solder as needed to create small, smooth connections. As you explore certain circuits, you ll discover that shorting two points to each other will reset the circuit you ve just crashed with your coolest bend. Rather than the usual power-supply interrupt to implement a reset, as most projects reflect, this secondary reset process, although unusual, is also valuable. For the situation in which power-supply interruption is difficult to implement, this short-circuit reset becomes invaluable. But it often comes at a price. The price of the short-circuit reset switch is that it might be dangerous to use, depending on how you use it. And such is the case with the reset on the SK-60. Instead of the usual N.C. (normally closed) pushbutton switch used in the power supply interrupt, the short-circuit reset uses an N.O. (normally open) pushbutton. Pressing the button for a split second sends a small zap through the circuit and, like a cardiac defibrillator applied to a heart attack victim, starts things up again. To extend the defibrillator example, keeping the lightning bolts flowing into the newly resuscitated patient for, say, an hour or two, would be ill advised and probably the most exciting topic in the ensuing wrongful death suit. Get the picture You re soldering a bent defibrillator into the SK-60. Tap it as briefly as humanly possible and as if the instrument s life is depending upon your doing so. That s because it does. Too scary Remember, in the event of a deep crash, when turning the power switch on and off won t correct the situation, you can always break contact within the battery compartment to reset the circuit (dislodge a battery for a moment). Line-output circuitry is the same in all projects if not otherwise noted. See the line-output scheme in Appendix A and assume that the speaker in the diagram is the speaker in the project.
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