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Component relocation Who needs an extension box The project box approach Thinking outside the box Art for art s sake
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Component Relocation
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Relocating the body-contacts as mentioned was an aesthetic decision. But down-and-dirty, nitty-gritty need is more often behind relocating components. The classic example is the need to mount switches on the instrument case but not being able to because the backs of the switches will hit something soldered to the circuit board a large capacitor, for example. Solution Relocate.
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Installing speakers Creating templates for reproducing an instrument
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Part III Dr. Frankenstein, May We Proceed
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1. Snip the capacitor (or whatever) from the board, about 1 8" from the solder junction itself, leaving on the board just enough remaining of the component lead still able to be soldered to (see Figure 11-1).
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FIGURE 11-1: Clip the component from the circuit.
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Observe when you snip the leads which lead went where just in case you re dealing with a polarized component. 2. Find a spot within the instrument case, as close to the original location as possible, to fasten the relocated component where it will now be out of the way (a little dab of hot-melt glue is good for this; see Figure 11-2).
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FIGURE 11-2: Glue the component in an out-of-they-way spot.
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3. Solder the wires between the component s leads and the spots on the circuit board where the component was originally located. This should be easy because you left little wire stubs behind when you first clipped the leads (see Figure 11-3).
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FIGURE 11-3: Reconnect the component by soldering wires between it and its original leads.
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11 Bending Beyond the Basics
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If you re very comfortable with soldering and don t need to leave wire stubs behind to solder to, either clip the leads flush with the board or heat the solder joints and remove the component, leads and all, from the board. Doing so will reduce the chance of the heated stub from the clipped lead popping out of the reverse side of the board and possibly causing trouble.
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Who Needs an Extension Box
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You do, if you find so many bends that you don t have enough room on the original case to mount all the new controls. Using anything from a project box (empty plastic or metal case for building electronic projects into) to an old toaster, you ll find that expansion is close at hand. Mount your needed switches, pots, LEDs, and whatever else on the toaster; then, connect all the wires to the circuit as usual. The real issue is all the wires that run between the circuit s original housing and the added box. The easiest way to do this is with multiconductor wire and rubber grommets. Here s how: 1. Determine how many wires will have to run between the extension box and the original instrument. 2. Choose a multiconductor cable that supplies the many inner wires and cut it to the length you want between the instrument and the box, including the length of the wire runs inside both units. Leave a few more inches than you think you ll need. 3. Remove the outer plastic of the multiconductor cable to a distance from the ends as needed for the longest wire run expected within each unit, for both the original case and the extension box. For example, if you want 12" of cable between the two units and you feel the longest wire run inside each unit will be 10", start with a cable 3' long. You ll want a little of the outer insulation still intact inside each case, so leave 1" beyond the 12" you want between units. This means that you d be stripping 11" of the outer insulation off each end of the wire (start with a long scoring of the wire with an X-ACTO blade along the 11" length to be removed, tearing along the score to remove and finally clip this sheath away at the 11" mark). 4. Strip 1 4" off the end of each of the inner wires you intend to use to make your connections. Tin the wire ends (see 8, Figure 8-21). The cable is now ready (see Figure 11-4). 5. Obtain rubber grommets that will allow the unstripped cable to snugly pass through, and mount these within the holes drilled in the case and extension box (slowly enlarge pilot holes with your hand bore to achieve the correct hole size for the grommet s mounting diameter). Pass the cable through the grommet in the original instrument s case so that the stillinsulated main cable just passes through. A nylon wire tie pulled tightly around the wire, just inside the case, will keep the cable from slipping out (see Figure 11-5).
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