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Case preparation Drilling Bits Practice holes
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Case Preparation
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That plastic instrument housing is just waiting for all the new controls you need to add to implement all the bends you ve discovered. It s yearning for em. But you may have both problems and assets hiding right under your nose.
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So, you ve painted your alien instrument, installed all the switches, all the pots, and all the dials and LEDs. And it looks great! You carefully line up the halves of the case, bring them together, and what Why don t they go together They don t go together because the backs of the switches, the pots, and the dials and LEDs all hit the circuit board. Bummer. To avoid this all-too-common experience, be sure to look before you leap! Try to locate all your added components at points on the case that will not interfere with potential obstructions, such as the circuit board example mentioned, when the instrument is reassembled. If you do want to mount components opposite the circuit board or anything else within the case, just be certain that there s still room. To do this, measure the depth of the components that will be present on the backside of the panel they re mounted on.
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Pilot holes Hole drilling fixes Mounting new components
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If the backside of the mounted switch measures, say, 1 2", just tape a 1 2" stack of pennies to the spot on the inside of the case where the switch would mount (see Figure 10-1).
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Pennies Tape Height of back of switch, etc.
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FIGURE 10-1: Stack pennies to height of back of component and tape to inside of case.
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If the case closes with the pennies in place, you have pretty good assurance that the switch will fit. Remove the pennies. Install the switch. It is a good idea to add a couple pennies to the stack to make sure that you ll still have clearance after wires are soldered to the switch.
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If the circuit board is in the way, you re pretty much stuck with that and you ll have to plan around it. But elsewhere, you might have options. Many plastic cases are made more rigid by means of ribs internal plastic walls that crisscross between the case s outside dimensions. Removing these ribs usually has little effect upon the integrity of the housing. If such ribs block the placing of components opposite them on the other half of the case, just clip them away with a high-quality wire clipper (the soft plastic won t harm the clipper). A small pliers can be used in conjunction with the clippers by twisting sections of the clipped rib away from the case.
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Finalizing Component Locations
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Two things come into focus here: clearances and playability. Observe the positions your hands fall naturally into when touching the instrument. Look for comfortable hand and finger positions and, keeping internal clearances in mind, plan your control array as close as possible to
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10 Building the Bent Instrument
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these hand and finger spots. However, do the opposite for your reset (power supply interrupter) switch. Find a place to mount it as far away from your finger positions as possible). This is a switch you don t want to hit by accident! Using a pencil (because it s easy to erase with a cloth or fingertip), mark very lightly where the components will go. If you want components to be spaced equidistantly, measure. Using a ruler, make layout lines drawn in very light pencil to keep components in a row (see Figure 10-2).
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FIGURE 10-2: Use a ruler to lay out straight lines.
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Holding the edge of a plastic ruler in a curve will help you draw smooth arcs (see Figure 10-3). Don t forget the mechanical compass for drawing arcs, either.
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FIGURE 10-3: Use a flexible plastic ruler for drawing curves.
Good drill usage starts with realizing that you + drill = human drill press. But whereas a drill press looks to a rigid metal frame to keep things in line, you re but flesh and blood. Think of the rigidity of the drill press as you use the Dremel hand tool and try to replicate the press s framework by keeping your torso and arm muscles somewhat firm. Missing this, you re likely to allow the spinning drill bit to run across the plastic from time to time, leaving an undulating scratch along its path. In the event of drilling through flat panels (such as project box housings), back the panel with a wood block of some kind to avoid bending the panel or having the bit hit your workbench upon penetration. Have your workpiece well supported, and if you need for some reason to drill a hole with an unmovable item behind it (that is, circuit section), be sure to control the bit well so that upon penetration it does not contact any nearby components.